Printable Checklist

Electrical Inspection Checklist

Rough-in and final checklists inspectors actually use. Run through these yourself before you call.

By Brian WilliamsPublished April 21, 2026Updated April 22, 2026

The two inspections: Rough-in after wiring is run but before drywall closes, Final after devices, panel, and cover plates are installed and the system is energized. Do not close walls before the rough-in passes.

What the Inspector Is Looking For

Electrical inspectors focus on a consistent set of items across rough-in and final. Understanding each one lets you pre-inspect yourself.

Box fillNEC 314.16

Count every conductor in the box against its volume rating. Too many conductors is a heat-dissipation failure.

Working spaceNEC 110.26

36 inches deep, 30 inches wide, 6.5 feet tall clear in front of every panel and switchgear.

AFCI protectionNEC 210.12

Required on most 120V, single-phase, 15A and 20A circuits in dwellings. Exact scope depends on the NEC edition your jurisdiction has adopted.

GFCI protectionNEC 210.8

Required in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, outdoors, laundry, unfinished basements, and any receptacle near water.

Grounding electrode conductorNEC 250.66

Sized based on service conductor size. Must be continuous from service to grounding electrode.

Tamper-resistant receptaclesNEC 406.12

Required in all areas of dwelling units. Non-TR receptacles in dwellings are an automatic failure on final.

Panel labelingNEC 408.4

Every breaker labeled with its use. Labels must be durable and legible. Pencil on tape is not acceptable.

Smoke and CO detectorsNFPA 72 / local

Smoke in each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, every level. CO where fuel-burning appliances or attached garage exist.

Inspection 1: Rough-In

Before drywall closes

The inspector checks the work while every wire and box is still visible. Covering walls before this passes is the single fastest way to earn a retroactive demolition order.

All boxes are secured to studs within NEC 314.23 requirements (nail, screw, or strap)
Cables are stapled within 12 inches of every box and every 4.5 feet in between
Cables run through studs use nail-plate protection when within 1.25 inches of a stud face
Box fill conductor count does not exceed NEC 314.16 limits for the box volume
Equipment grounding conductor is present and continuous in every box
Metal boxes have a bonding screw or pigtail to the grounding conductor
Neutral and ground conductors are kept separate downstream of the main panel
AFCI protection is planned for all required circuits (bedrooms, living rooms, most 120V per current NEC)
GFCI protection is planned for required locations (kitchens, baths, garages, outdoors, laundry)
Receptacle spacing meets NEC 210.52: no point on a wall more than 6 feet from a receptacle
Wet-location boxes are rated for damp or wet service as appropriate
Wire gauge matches the breaker rating (12 AWG copper = 20A, 10 AWG = 30A, 6 AWG = 50A)
Grounding electrode conductor is sized correctly for the service (NEC 250.66)
No cables run in violation of attic rules (must be protected when run across joists within 7 feet of floor)
Service entrance cable, if present, meets drip loop and weatherhead requirements

Inspection 2: Final

After devices and panel installed

After devices, cover plates, and the panel are in, and the system is energized, schedule the final. The inspector verifies everything that was invisible at rough-in and tests a sample of circuits.

Every circuit breaker is clearly labeled with its intended use
Panel deadfront is installed and all knockouts are covered
Working space in front of the panel meets NEC 110.26 (36 inches deep, 30 inches wide, 6.5 feet tall, clear)
Main bonding jumper is installed and visible
All required GFCI receptacles are installed and test correctly with the built-in test button
All required AFCI breakers are installed per current NEC adoption
Tamper-resistant receptacles are installed in all dwelling areas per NEC 406.12
Weather-resistant receptacles with in-use covers are installed outdoors
Receptacle heights are consistent and meet local standards (typically 12 to 18 inches to center above finished floor)
Smoke detectors are installed in each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level
Carbon monoxide detectors are installed where required (fuel-burning appliances, attached garage)
All switch and receptacle cover plates are installed
Ground-fault and arc-fault protection test successfully on a sampled basis
Service grounding electrode connection is accessible and intact
Exterior disconnects (service, HVAC, EV, hot tub) are within sight of equipment and lockable where required

Top 10 Items That Fail Electrical Inspections

These are the items that fail the most frequently. Hit these first during your pre-inspection walk.

1. Box fill exceeded

How to pass: Count every conductor, device, and grounding wire. A single 14-2 cable in a metal box is four fill units. Oversize the box when in doubt.

2. Missing AFCI breakers

How to pass: Most 120V circuits in dwellings need AFCI protection under current NEC. Verify your jurisdiction edition and install accordingly.

3. GFCI in wrong location or missing

How to pass: Kitchen counter receptacles, bathroom, garage, outdoor, laundry, unfinished basement, and now most dwelling areas under expanded NEC 210.8.

4. Panel circuits unlabeled

How to pass: Print a clean label for every breaker. Do not rely on pencil-on-tape. Every breaker needs a clear use description.

5. Working space blocked

How to pass: NEC 110.26 requires 36 inches deep, 30 inches wide clear space in front of the panel. Move stored items before calling the inspector.

6. Missing tamper-resistant receptacles

How to pass: All receptacles in dwellings must be TR. Old stock non-TR parts are a reflex fail on final.

7. Cable not stapled per code

How to pass: Staple within 12 inches of a box and every 4.5 feet in between. Double-check every run before rough-in.

8. Missing nail plates

How to pass: Any cable run through a stud within 1.25 inches of the face needs a steel nail plate to prevent drywall-screw punctures.

9. Neutral and ground bonded downstream

How to pass: Only bond at the main service disconnect. Subpanels keep neutral and ground isolated with separate bus bars.

10. Wire gauge wrong for breaker

How to pass: 12 AWG copper for 20A, 10 AWG for 30A, 6 AWG for 50A. Do not extend a 15A circuit using 12 AWG and downsize the breaker without justification.

The 10-Minute Pre-Inspection

Before the inspector arrives, walk the work yourself. Bring a receptacle tester with GFCI/AFCI trip function, a tape measure, and a copy of the approved plan. For rough-in: open every box, count the conductors, verify staple spacing, confirm nail plates. For final: test every GFCI and AFCI, read every panel label, measure working space. Ten minutes of self-inspection catches 80 percent of would-be failures.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most common reasons electrical inspections fail?

Top offenders: missing or wrong AFCI/GFCI protection, improper box fill (too many conductors for box volume per NEC 314.16), missing grounding or bonding on metal boxes, unlabeled panel circuits, cable not stapled within 12 inches of a box, romex run through holes without nail-plate protection, and working-space clearance under NEC 110.26 blocked by stored items.

What does a re-inspection cost?

Most cities charge $50 to $150 per re-inspection. The first re-inspection is sometimes free as a grace trip. Repeat failures on the same item can trigger a progressively higher fee (some cities double the fee on the third trip). Re-inspection is typically booked through the same portal as the initial inspection.

How long does an electrical inspection take?

Rough-in: typically 15 to 45 minutes for a residential scope. The inspector walks each room, opens boxes to count conductors, and looks at staple spacing and cable protection. Final: 10 to 30 minutes, focused on panel, GFCI/AFCI test, receptacle heights, and labeling. Complex or large projects take longer.

Can I be present for the inspection?

Yes and it is a good idea. Being present lets you hear corrections directly, ask about marginal calls, and save time by reopening any boxes the inspector wants a closer look at. For homeowner permits, some cities require the permit holder on site for final inspection.

How do I prep the site for inspection?

Rough-in: have the approved permit on site, leave all boxes open, expose all cable, and make sure nothing is covered. Final: energize all circuits, install every device and cover plate, label the panel clearly, ensure NEC 110.26 working space is clear, and put the permit card in a visible spot.

What if I think the inspector missed something?

If you spot an issue yourself before they leave, point it out. After a passed inspection, the work is your responsibility, but bringing a new concern back to the building department in writing is allowed. Self-reported corrections post-inspection are treated kindly and typically do not trigger penalties.

What if the inspector is wrong?

Ask which code section they are citing. Most inspectors welcome a technical discussion. If you still disagree, you can request a supervisor review in writing (most cities have a formal process). For rough-in, fix the issue quickly if unsure; for debatable items, get the code cite and escalate before covering the work.

What labeling is required on the panel?

Every circuit breaker must be labeled with the area or device it serves. Labels must be durable (printed or engraved, not pencil on masking tape), legible, and in a language the inspector can read. Breaker handles must also be visible and accessible. Missing or illegible labels are among the top five final-inspection failure points.