Printable Checklist

Deck Inspection Checklist

What inspectors check at each stage and the items that fail most often. Use this to pass on the first try.

The three inspections: Footing before concrete pour, Framing after structure is up but before deck boards or railing, Final after completion. Each must happen while the inspected work is visible.

Inspection 1: Footing

Before concrete pour

The inspector checks the holes before you pour. If you pour first, the inspection fails and you will be required to dig up footings for re-inspection.

Hole depth reaches or exceeds local frost line (verify frost depth for your jurisdiction)
Hole diameter matches approved plans (typically 12" to 24" depending on load)
Bottom of hole is undisturbed native soil (not loose backfill)
No water or excessive moisture pooling in the hole
Rebar placement matches plan (where required), with proper clearance from sides
Tube or form is centered, plumb, and extends above grade enough to keep wood off soil
Post base connector is positioned and ready to be set in wet concrete
Soil is compacted around the outside of any form

Inspection 2: Framing

Before decking installed

The most detailed inspection. Inspector verifies every structural connection while everything is still visible. Installing deck boards before this inspection is the #1 reason for retroactive demolition orders.

Ledger board is attached with code-compliant fasteners (lag bolts or through-bolts) at correct spacing
Ledger flashing is continuous and properly lapped (metal Z-flashing or peel-and-stick membrane)
1/2" drainage gap between ledger and house siding is present
Post base connectors secure posts to concrete footings (no direct wood-to-concrete contact)
Post caps or beam-to-post connectors are installed and fastened per manufacturer spec
Joists are hung with approved joist hangers (proper nail/screw pattern, not under-nailed)
Joist spans do not exceed IRC R507.5 tables for the species and size used
Beam plies are fastened together per code (not just nailed, but through-bolted or approved pattern)
Rim joist is continuous along the outside edge
Blocking is installed where required by span tables
All exposed connector hardware is hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel
Lateral load connectors (hold-downs) are installed where required
Stair stringers are properly hung and supported at top and bottom
No visible water damage, rot, or warping in any structural member

Inspection 3: Final

After completion

Inspector verifies the finished deck meets code on all the visible items — railings, stairs, deck boards, electrical. This is where the 4-inch sphere and 3/8-inch uniformity rules get tested.

Deck boards are fastened with approved fasteners (hot-dipped galvanized, stainless, or composite-approved)
Deck board spacing allows drainage (1/8" minimum for wood, per manufacturer for composite)
Railing height matches approved plan (36" or 42")
Balusters pass the 4" sphere test at every gap, including at the top rail and bottom
Stair handrail is graspable (1-1/4" to 2" round, or equivalent profile)
Handrail is continuous from top to bottom of stair with end returns
Handrail height is 34" to 38" measured from stair nosing
Stair riser height is consistent within 3/8" across the flight
Stair tread depth is consistent within 3/8" across the flight
Stair riser height does not exceed 7-3/4" anywhere
Stair tread depth is at least 10" at every tread
Stair opening gap (between treads if open-riser) does not allow 4" sphere
Bottom landing is at least 36" deep in direction of travel
Stair is illuminated (exterior light with switch inside house)
Any electrical outlets are GFCI and weather-resistant, with approved cover
Site is clean of debris, trip hazards removed

Top 10 Items That Fail Inspections

Across all three inspection stages, these are the most common fail points:

1. Ledger board flashing missing or improperly lapped

How to pass: Use metal Z-flashing or self-adhering membrane, and extend it above the ledger and under the siding.

2. Railing baluster gap exceeds 4 inches at the end of a run

How to pass: Calculate spacing for the whole run before installing. Do not just evenly divide and leave a wide end gap.

3. Stair riser inconsistency greater than 3/8 inch

How to pass: Usually the top or bottom riser. Account for deck board thickness when cutting stringers.

4. Footings above frost line

How to pass: Extend footings below the local frost depth. In cold regions this means 36" to 48" or more.

5. Handrail not graspable

How to pass: Add a proper 1-1/2" round rail to the inside of any flat rail on stairs.

6. Post base missing or wood-to-concrete contact

How to pass: Every post needs an approved post base connector. Direct wood-on-concrete wicks water and rots.

7. Joist hangers under-nailed

How to pass: Fill every hole in the hanger with the manufacturer-specified nail (often Simpson SD #10 structural screws).

8. Undersized beam or joist for the span

How to pass: Check IRC R507.5 tables before ordering lumber. Spans depend on species, size, and spacing.

9. Bottom landing missing or too small

How to pass: Pour a concrete pad or install a 36"-deep treated wood platform before calling for final.

10. No illumination at stair

How to pass: Install an exterior light at the top of the stair, controlled from inside.

The 10-minute pre-inspection walkaround

Before the inspector arrives, do your own walkthrough with this checklist. Bring a 4-inch-diameter ball (or a standard 4-inch pipe), a tape measure, and a level. Check every railing gap, measure every riser, verify every handrail return. Ten minutes of self-inspection prevents most failed inspections.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many inspections does a deck permit require?

Most residential deck permits require three inspections: (1) footing inspection before concrete is poured, (2) framing inspection after the structural members are up but before decking is installed, and (3) final inspection after the project is complete. Simple low decks sometimes combine framing and final into one inspection.

What if my inspection fails?

The inspector leaves a correction notice listing specific items that failed. Fix each item, call to reschedule, and pay any reinspection fee (typically $50 to $150). Most cities allow one free reinspection per permit; subsequent reinspections are charged.

Can I cover work before the inspection?

No. Each inspection must happen while the work it covers is still visible. Pouring concrete before footing inspection, installing deck boards before framing inspection, or fully enclosing any connection point that needed inspection will fail the permit and often require destructive exposure for retro-inspection.

Who schedules the inspection?

You (the permit holder) do. Most cities have an online portal or a phone line for scheduling. Contractors pulling permits on your behalf may schedule on your behalf. Call or schedule at least 24 to 48 hours in advance; busy jurisdictions may need a week.

Do I need to be present for the inspection?

Most residential inspections do not require the homeowner present; the inspector just needs site access. If the deck is behind a fence, leave a gate unlocked or note access instructions when scheduling. For framing and final inspections, having the approved plans on site is often required.

What is "dry-in" inspection?

"Dry-in" is a term borrowed from roofing that sometimes applies to decks. It means the structure is weatherproofed (ledger flashed, deck board spacing correct, stair stringers protected) but not yet finished. Some jurisdictions use this as an intermediate inspection between framing and final.

What happens after the final inspection passes?

The city closes the permit and issues a Certificate of Completion (or occupancy, depending on jurisdiction). Keep this document with your house records forever — title companies ask for it during resale. The permit is now a permanent part of the property's record.